LA had never really appealed to me. The thought of all those broken dreams. The frightly surgeoned freaks. Modern day beggars pumped in silicon and cheap glitter selling themselves for a cheap buck. Although the sights were often amusing, thank God I stayed downtown.
Downtown doesn't do it for the regular LA crowd but from my short time there, it was a far cry from the douche fest that can sometimes be LA.
Like an edgier Manhattan with less traffic, you can pretty much walk or cycle anywhere and that's a rarity in a place the scale of LA. At times it could feel like a ghost town but once I climbed to the roof, ventured behind the anonymous doors of speakeasy cocktail bars and experienced amazing street food, I found my LA love.
... seeking the edge downtown ...FOOD
For a contemporary take on Peruvian cosina join the locals at Mo-Chica. Named after Mochica - a language formerly spoken along the northwest coast of Peru, Peruvian born Ricardo Zarate and his kitchen dishes up spicy and sour, savoury and sweet, new and familiar. Try the Pan con tuna - Grilled bread, spicy tuna, cucumber jalapeno relish & yuzu aioli and the Ceviche Carretillero with Seabass, rocoto, red onion, leche de tigre, choclo and cancha. Excite your palate with it all.
Grand Central Market is the ultimate foodie mecca and a historical part of downtown. Established in 1917, this indoor market has been the epicentre of food in the local area consistently. From its early days housing grocers, delis and bakeries, the space is now more geared to eating in. Open from 7am - 6pm daily you can eat a meal around the clock. Start with breakfast at Egg Slut, get the ceviche and fish tacos from Mariscos Maria Seafood for lunch and grab an early evening meal at Sticky Rice - an open kitchen cooking up outstanding Thai Street Food. The grilled Wagyu skirt steak melts in the mouth and is perfectly matched with the zingy crunch of a papaya salad with a kick of heat. This dish turned out to be one of my best meals this year and served with sticky rice just cost $20. Make sure you wash it down with a fresh coconut.
InNOut burger beats the hell out of their US counterparts. Order from the not so secret menu for meat vs cheese variations and "animal" style burgers that include pickles, extra spread, grilled onions and mustard fried onto each meat patty. If you need more reasons check out 13 things that didn't know about In-N-Out. There is nothing like a socially responsible burger joint to convince us that your burger is doing some good.
What Katz Deli is to NY Philippe the Original is to LA, home of the French Dipped Sandwich - A baked French roll dipped in gravy with a choice of filling (roast beef, pork, lamb, turkey or ham), add cheese (Swiss, American, Monterey Jack or Blue cheese) chose from a side of potato salad, coleslaw or mac N cheese. Need I say more? Except ...don't forget your dollars, this place is cash only.
What Katz Deli is to NY Philippe the Original is to LA, home of the French Dipped Sandwich - A baked French roll dipped in gravy with a choice of filling (roast beef, pork, lamb, turkey or ham), add cheese (Swiss, American, Monterey Jack or Blue cheese) chose from a side of potato salad, coleslaw or mac N cheese. Need I say more? Except ...don't forget your dollars, this place is cash only.
Nothing dirty about the slice at Garage Pizza. For $3 you get a gourmet thin crust huge slice with a slight chew, topped with fresh herbs. If you want to have a brew with your slice pick up before you get there as it is BYOB or take it home at the end of your night to soak up tomorrows hangover.
COCKTAILS
All bars in downtown close at 2am as they do across most of California so get out early to enjoy what they do best....
All bars in downtown close at 2am as they do across most of California so get out early to enjoy what they do best....
With a Jazz Jam every Monday and DJs spinning throughout the week with happy hour cocktails from 6-8pm, make sure that you start the night at The Falls Lounge.
If it is the speakeasy action that you are looking for, find door number 110 (look low) and if you're lucky enough to get into The Association you'll soak up the glamour that Mad Men chose for a cocktail scene.
For high end crafted cocktails from some of the city's best bartenders, navigate your steps in the famous Cole's French Dip, find the door and head into The Varnish. This beautiful low-lit den doesn't do reservations so get there early. On Sundays, Mondays and Tuesdays they host live Jazz. An LA downtown must!
For a cocktail high head up to the Standard Hotel Rooftop. With two bars, a swimming pool, ping pong tables galore, water bed pods (the most amazing addition to any night of drinking) plus a rooftop cinema there is more than enough to keep you entertained all night. For a better cocktail, don't order off the menu, just let the bartenders do what they do best.
Golden Gopher has the oldest liquor license in LA so grab a martini at the bar and leave with a six pack of craft beer. A great jukebox, classic arcade machines and if you're feeling peckish you can order pizza in (just ask the bartender).
COFFEE
For LA coffee cool, head down to Handsome Coffee. Located on the wrong side of Skidrow in an industrial estate it may not seem too appealing but with a fine cold brew on a hot day and a great selection of pastries, its the only way to start your day downtown. If you're looking for alternative tourist foodie gifts look no further, as their merchandise is equally handsome.
... demands you challenge your LA mindset ...
... demands you challenge your LA mindset ...
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