Austin - Texas

Austin-tatious living won't stay weird for long ...

If you're planning a trip to the US, go to Austin now! Having claimed the slogan "Keep Austin weird" to promote the city's independence back in 2000, Austin is swiftly moving from it's bohemian musical roots to become America's fastest growing city. 

On my recent trip I spoke with several Austinites who confirmed that the hippies are fading and the city is changing. It seems that for many of them, a significant turning point was the death of homeless cross dressing hero Leslie Conchran in 2012. Since then, apartment blocks are being thrown up daily (150 people move to Austin per day), while hundreds of thousands continue to flock here for major festivals like South BY Southwest (SXSW) and houses converted to bars and restaurants has become de riguer.

photo by @happymercado on Instagram 

For now, Austin remains liberal in its outlook and often its clothing. Although legal to be topless in Austin, August 24th is GoTopless Day across the US so if you're a free spirit, head here to express your inner hippy. According to a local cab driver "it's great for the guys, they get to see their grannies topless" so maybe not one for the squeamish.

Expect weird and wonderful wildlife everywhere you look. Armadillos and racoons roaming Rainey Street, the Thong Guy (Austin's own barometer) parading the Barton Springs and birds congregating on the corner of E 6th Street; recreating a beautiful yet eerie scene worthy of Hitchcock.  

... get in while you can  ...

Austin has a similar approach to Portland when it comes food. They do everything really well and there is an abundance of great spots whatever your budget. The sad news is that you will be hard stretched to find bars open past 2am but the good news is that most food trucks serve til 3am. If you want to party on, be prepared and buy alcohol in advance (spirits sold til 10pm / beer and wine sold til 12am). 

Cheap eats

The food truck scene is huge so get out there and hunt down anything from Asian fusion to Gourmet donuts on most corners. See food trailer austin for more locations. 

While Ramen continues to hold the crown for the rock n roll cheap eat, get one down you at Daruma Ramen. Perfect cheap food on the run, washed down with a beer.

Small plates

"Find the best ingredients and don't mess them up" is the mission statement of roadside smorgasbord Barley Swine on South Lamar Boulevard. From the second we walked in, I knew I was going to love it. Greeted by cheerful locals, we were talked through meat and cheese options, offered beer/wine pairings and recommended that we try the pâté. Then told "Our pate was previously made by a wonderful woman but now she has kids she wanted it to give it up. Lucky for us she taught us how to make it and now we do it in house". We went for it...duck pâté with lavender and honey and it was as even better than it sound. Get it as part of your board and pair it with a refreshing fine craft beer or wine if you're feeling brave on a bike. 

For a later night stop, check out Peche - not only Absinthe specialists but specialists of hearty small plates, wines and cocktails. I wussed out and went for the lighter option on the menu - blackened Shrimps and Scallop Salad. Next time I would go for the Mac n Cheese and Chicken Fried Beef Tongue. There is nothing secret about this place but it still manages to hold a prohibition note. 

Al fresco brunch/lunch

For a fine French Asian affair visit Elizabeth Street Cafe under the sun and work your way through dishes inspired by Hanoi colonial cafes. Classics includes summer rolls, pho, bun and of course the staple bahn mi. All bread is made in-house so try the House Specialty: Chicken Liver Mousse, Pork Pâté, Roasted Pork. The best bahn mi since Banh My Phuong in Hoi An.

 

If Indian is more your thing, get over to Whip Inn, recommended by a local bartender as "the most Austin place to go", I wasn't disappointed. Part grocery store, part off license and bar serving great Indian food. A family business since 1986 it epitomes the independent spirit of Austin with its grungy yet welcoming surroundings, their own award winning brews and some of the finest craft beer from across America. 

Try their breakfast naan stuffed with scrambled eggs and cheese (served with a chutney of your choice) and one of their curries. Curries whilst maybe not completely authentic, are delicious none the less.

If you want to keep more on the US brunch tip, check out Cenote who serve Handsome coffee and equally handsome brunch. If romance is on your mind take a loved one to Walton's Fancy & Staple and choose some flowers while you eat.

BBQ
If you are going to go for one BBQ in Austin it has to be Franklins. Rising star and BBQ Master Aaron Franklin serves up the best brisket known to man (They've sold out of brisket for every day they've exist). So chant the mantra "the best things come to those that wait" while you queue for several hours to get your gums around the most succulent ribs known to man. The great thing is that you will meet like minded souls in search of their next food high. We met a great couple from San Francisco and Jose really bonded over the sampler bite of brisket.

Go overboard and order it all. This is a feast that you can live onfor days and there is no shame in asking for a doggy bag here. Just make sure that you leave space for the sides and bourbon banana pie.  No surprise that Maxim magazine named this place the best BBQ in the US.

















Fine Dine

For fine dining the hottest place in town right now is Qui and it is with good reason that it's GQ restaurant of the year. I never believed that cabbage could be a stand out dish until now. Combining their Texan and Asian cuisine, they add magic to an otherwise dull dish by adding fried chicken skin and fennel relish to buttery leaves. 

And the magic doesn't end there. Each dish is finely crafted and inspiring. From pairing shortribs with Kimchi and fish caramel to cooking a rabbit five ways (an absolute must) to their cheddar cheese ice cream sandwich. No gimmick here. A clever combination of desert and cheeseboard rolled into one, this sweet and savoury desert could end my love affair with creme brulee (my go to desert) if it appeared on more menus. If Michelin are dishing out stars in Austin, they should look no further. 

Beer
From its reclaimed wood interior (from trees in their own back yard) and its taps of strictly Texas based brews to its craft beer shop and Detroit pizza food truck in the back...Craft Pride is beautifully crafted on all counts. 

Easy Tiger is a bake shop up top and bar/restaurant in the basement with adjoining garden and table service. Your hostess cheerily introduces herself and talks you through the spectrum of crafts beers and recommendations, insisting that if you eat, you should try the homemade sausages and/or bread. Dogs are welcome so hang with them in the garden while you challenge their owners to a ping pong tournament.

Don't be fooled by the name,  Bangers take their sausage seriously but are equally fanatical about beer. Then there's the music, the pooches and people. Over 100 beers on tap, a dog pen, live music most nights and over ten ways to eat your sausage. What's not to like?

Cocktails

For a personal imbibing experience, reserve your two hour slot at Midnight Cowboy Modelling, obey their house rules and enjoy sublime cocktails made at your chesterfield booth. 

If you're looking for low light vintage glory, witness prohibition cocktails at Weather Up. Take in some late night garden action at Whislers  and keep it local at East Side Show Room. If beer is not your thing make sure you check out the cocktail list at Easy Tiger.

Coffee

Wright Bros Brew & Brew is where fine brews collide, serving craft beer alongside locally roasted coffee. If you're looking for a good spot to work or people watch check out Houndstooth in Downtown and North Lamar or Caffe Medici on West Lynn, Guadalupe St or Congress Avenue.